Saturday, May 16, 2009

The Greatest Beverage

Hands down...Champagne. Slow down, do not get all worked up. I know such an incendiary statement might elicit strong opinions to the contrary. Water, one might obviously offer is far more important and therefore substantially "greater". Lovers of other varieties of fermented products will justifiably lobby for their preferred libation. I myself find it difficult to distinguish the greatness of one beverage over another. I prefer to recognize each one for its particular suitability in a given situation --a hefeweizen with lemon as summer starts, a scotch with a piece of ice chipped from a glacier whilst kayaking in Alaska, or a great white burgundy with mushrooms and corn (please recognized that I am fully aware that using the word "whilst", referencing kayaking in AK, and purporting that I enjoy great white burgundy on any regular basis is totally pompous-but hey, I enjoy doing all three). Each of these are beloved in other situations, but none have the versatility that Champagne does.

Champagne is great with breakfast, lunch and dinner and for all the times in between. The range of different styles offers near endless possibility for pairings with all manner of food styles. The sheer magic of the not one but two fermentations make this beverage so much more alluring and able to lend itself to myriad occasions--not just the presumptive NYE celebration.

The crisp acidity that supports the flavor profile of each bottle of Champagne and the requisite bubbles enable this beverage to handle bright vinaigrettes, cream sauces, chili spice and much more. This past week, Tarver and I put this belief to the test with a meal that paired a series of Champagnes with some outstanding courses.

Here is the menu...
G O O D S T O N E I N N & E S T A T E

May 13, 2009

Petillant Au Pringtemps

reception

Veuve Cliquot, “Yellow Label”, Epernay, Champagne, Brut, NV

I.
airynee’s garden in multiple textures & forms

Moncuit, “Delos, Blanc de Blancs”, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne, Brut, NV

II.
paella

Guy Charlemagne, “Rose”, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne, Brut, NV

III.
morel mushroom, gnocchi, fried & pickled ramps, potato chip

Henriot, “Millesime”, Champagne, Brut, 1998

IV.
tenderloin of pork, parsnip, spinach, grapefruit, green onion

Gatinois, “Tradition”, Ay, Champagne, Brut, NV

V.
strawberries, puff pastry, vanilla custard, light caramel

Duval Leroy, “Lady Rose”, Vertus, Champagne, Sec, NV



this meal’s provisions were sourced locally from:

Ayrshire Farm * Fields of Athenry * Crooked Run Farm * Shadow Lane Farm * Over the Grass
Oak Springs Dairy * Goodstone Estate * Cornucopia Farm

Jim & Shari of Linden Winery

My experience with Virginia wines began about nine years ago, when in a different life, I worked as a bureaucrat at the Dept of Commerce. While the subject matter was facinating and I was priveleged to work with some of the most thoughtful and intellegent folks, the pace and process did not alway jive. So, I found refuge in Shennandoah. Touring wineries and searching out local produce recharged my batteries. The winery that was the constant on these junkets to the countryside was Linden. A bottle of Seyval, fresh goat cheese and a baguette on the lawn remains a fond memory of that time.

Now having returned to the area seven years later, I have rediscovered the Linden wines. More importantly, I have had the opportunity to begin a relationship with the wonderful people who make Linden what it is. Jim Law, Linden's founder, and Shari Avenius, grower and winery manager, are two of the reasons the wines are so enjoyable. I am attracted to the profession of sommelier because I love the interplay of food and wine, but more so because I love the story behind each wine. Linden's story is an important one for anyone interested in fine wine. Their story is one of a love for a place. Their wines are expressions of that place.

I have tasted a number of their wines thus far. From the outstanding and very expressive 08 Avenius Sauvignon Blanc to the elegant and age worthy chardonnays to the series of vineyard designated red blends, Linden makes world-class wine that happens to be from Virginia. I highly recommend visiting the winery to taste through their wines and seeing the vineyards first hand.

On June 10, Goodstone will feature Jim and Shari at a dinner celebrating their wines. Some reservations are still available and there is a great rate of $199 per night running at the Inn for those that attend the event. The menu, including some older vintages is below.

G O O D S T O N E I N N & E S T A T E

June10, 2009

Goodstone Welcomes Jim Law & Shari Avenius
of
Linden Vineyards

reception

Linden Vineyards, Vidal-Riesling, Virginia, 2008

I.
scallop, sweet pea in various forms, olive oil, white balsamic vinegar

Linden Vineyards, “Avenius”, Sauvignon Blanc, Virginia, 2008

II.
benton’s eighteen month country ham, masa, baby corn, mushroom, yogurt

Linden Vineyards, “Hardscrabble”, Chardonnay, Virginia, 1999
Linden Vineyards, “Hardscrabble”, Chardonnay, Virginia, 2006

III.
grilled flank steak, arugula, balsamic vinegar, marrow

Linden Vineyards, “Boisseau”, Red Wine, Virginia, 2006

IV.
lamb neck, dates, toasted cous cous, lamb belly, stewed peppers

Linden Vineyards, “Hardscrabble”, Red Wine, Virginia, 1998
Linden Vineyards, “Hardscrabble”, Red Wine, Virginia, 2006

V.
peach, honey, toasted oats, vanilla

Linden Vineyards, Petit Manseng, Virginia, 2004

menu offered at $150 per person plus tax and service

Upcoming Ridge Event at Goodstone

One and all, here is an event not to miss. Call 540.687.4645 to reserve a spot.

May 21, 2009 RIDGE
From the renowned Monte Bello cabernet sauvignon to the range of zinfandels and a beautiful chardonnay, Ridge produces some of the most enjoyed, well respected and character driven wines anywhere. Goodstone is honored to welcome Eric Baugher, Vice President of winemaking for Ridge at Monte Bello, for an evening featuring the single vineyard bottlings of Ridge’s chardonnay, zinfandels and Monte Bello wines. For those who have experienced Ridge wines, you will recognize the unique opportunity to taste them with Mr. Baugher. For those who have yet to enjoy these marvelous wines, seize the occasion to be introduced to them by this dedicated wine maker who is rarely found outside of the vineyard. A custom sequence of courses will be prepared by Chef Tarver King to complement the wines. The menu follows.


G O O D S T O N E I N N & E S T A T E

May 21, 2009


An Evening with Eric Baugher and RIDGE Wines


I.
airynee’s garden in multiple textures & forms

Ridge, Chardonnay, Santa Cruz, 2007

II.
“coq au zin”, mushroom, caramelized grey shallot, chicken cracklin’

Ridge, Zinfandel, Paso Robles, 2006

III.
duck confit with flavors of reuben

Ridge, “Geyserville”, Alexander Valley, 2006

IV.
lamb osso bucco, aged ewes’ milk cheese, radish root & greens

Ridge, “Lytton Springs”, Dry Creek Valley, 2006

V.
prime rib larded with smoke, collards, currant, malt, potato, pickled carrot

Ridge, “Monte Bello”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1999



this meal’s provisions were sourced locally from:

Ayrshire Farm * Fields of Athenry * Crooked Run Farm * Shadow Lane Farm * Over the Grass
Oak Springs Dairy * Goodstone Estate * Cornucopia Farm